Setting up the bike after purchase. Customizing your bike. Note: We also strongly recommend that you consult with sellers

The bicycles offered in the store are adjusted for the average person. But customizing the bike is still necessary. By adjusting the position of the saddle, handlebars and other elements, you will not only ensure a comfortable and safe ride.

Not tuning up your bike causes pain in your knees, back and neck. Therefore, many drivers cannot drive for a long time.

Sometimes pain in muscles and joints is caused by a lack of proper physical training. But most often the key to solving the problem lies in the calibration of the bike.

Saddle

The first thing you need to adjust before you get on the bike is the saddle. It is necessary to regulate:

• Height;
• Incline;
• Reach in the horizontal plane.

Moreover, depending on the person, the type of bicycle and riding characteristics, these indicators will vary.

Height

The main rule for any type of bicycle when adjusting the saddle height is that in the bottom position of the pedal the leg is almost straight.

There should be minimal bending at the knee, but do not allow the leg to be fully extended.

With this in mind, remember that the forefoot should be on the pedal, not the center or heel.

When adjusting the height, remember that your body should not sway as you pedal.

Bicycles, scooters, components

If you have to waddle from side to side to turn the pedal, lower the saddle 1-2 cm.

Another criterion is the placement of the foot on the ground. With an optimal saddle height, you won't have to lean the bike unnecessarily to get one foot on the road. If all three of the above factors are present on your bike, you have adjusted the saddle height.

This position allows the cyclist to expend less effort when riding and gain speed faster.

Keeping your knees slightly bent at the bottom of the pedals will prevent and ensure a comfortable and long ride.

Position

If the saddle height is universal for all types of bicycles, then its position may differ.

First, let's discuss the angle of inclination. For normal riding, it is better to use a horizontal saddle position.

This is especially true for men, since due to physiology, tilting the seat can cut off blood circulation and pinch important organs.

If we talk about the types of seats, there are special saddles for men with a notch in the central part. They are usually narrower than the women's versions. Therefore, take this factor into account when choosing a bike.

It is better to purchase a comfortable seat separately from the iron horse.

If you are going uphill, it is better to tilt the seat with the front part down. This will provide a more comfortable climb and reduce energy loss. When performing tricks, the saddle must be tilted back.

Many modern seats have rails in their design, with which the saddle can be moved in a horizontal plane.

Before determining the optimal reach, it is necessary to understand the peculiarities of the cyclist’s seating position on various types of bikes.

On mountain bikes, the rider's body must be tilted at 45 degrees, while on road bikes, the rider "lays" the body almost 90 degrees.

This is important to consider when adjusting the seat reach. A combination of handlebar and seat adjustments ensures a comfortable riding position, so don't settle for just adjusting the saddle.

It's important to remember that if the seat is too far back, the weight will shift towards the rear wheel.

This shift in the center of gravity puts stress on the front shock absorber and can create the risk of an accident or rollover.

And too close a position will cause inconvenience when rotating the pedals. In addition, in both cases you will experience discomfort in your shoulders, neck and back.

Therefore, adjust the reach wisely, based on your height, shape and riding characteristics.

Experiment! Set your saddle position and ride a few times. If you feel uncomfortable, keep changing the settings.

Steering wheel

As mentioned above, by combining handlebar and saddle settings, we achieve the optimal riding position for the cyclist. And depending on the type of bike it can be different.

Handlebar height

The comfort and efficiency of shock absorbers depends on the height of the steering wheel. If the handlebars are too high, the cyclist will sit almost upright.

This will shift the center of gravity toward the saddle and reduce the load on the handlebars, which will reduce the effectiveness of the front shock absorber. Although for beginners it is better to raise the steering wheel slightly above the seat level.

On city bikes, the handlebars are located at the same level as the saddle, while on road bikes the handlebar height is lower. This is due to the position of the rider's torso when riding.

The almost 90-degree tilt, which provides low air resistance and high speed, is achieved through the correct combination of handlebar and saddle level.

The main rule for mountain bikes is that the rider's arms are bent at approximately 45 degrees at the elbows.

This will ensure effective operation of the shock absorbers and reduce discomfort from vibrations transmitted to the hands.

Takeaway

To properly adjust the handlebar stem on a mountain bike, experienced cyclists use the following rule:

1. Rest your elbow on the edge of the front of the saddle;
2. Extend your hand with straight fingers towards the steering wheel;
3. Position the handlebars so that your fingertips are in the middle of the stem.

Otherwise, adjust the handlebars and saddle to suit you in such a way that it is comfortable for you with your build and height to ride a bicycle.

Be aware of the rules that apply to different types of bikes and proper weight distribution.

Grips

An important point when adjusting the steering wheel is the position of the grips and brake levers. During long trips, some drivers rub their thumb on the shifters.

To avoid discomfort, loosen the instruments on the steering wheel and move them to a distance convenient for you, if the design of the steering wheel allows this.

But don’t overdo it, so that in a critical situation you can quickly apply the brakes without wasting precious seconds.

Keep in mind that the closer your hands are to the center of the steering wheel, the more difficult it is to control the unit. Therefore, place devices at a reasonable distance.

Finally, I would like to note that in order to customize the bike for yourself, you need to make two or three “forays”. This will help ensure that the positions are set correctly.

Adjusting speeds on a bicycle is necessary in cases of breakdown, replacement of the main components of the gear shift system, or during assembly of equipment. With proper study of the thematic material, each person can independently adjust the speeds on their bicycle. Such skills need to be improved if a cyclist plans to ride his two-wheeled vehicle for a long time.

The process of setting up the entire shift system begins with the rear derailleur. To adjust the bike, for convenience, it is advisable to turn it over on the handlebars, or fix it on the weight.

How to Adjust Rear Derailleur Speed ​​on a Bicycle

• To adjust the rear derailleur, set the chain to the second sprocket on the front sprocket system. At the rear we place the chain on the smallest sprocket. These movements are made by holding the rear wheel in weight and turning the pedals by hand.
• When switching to a small chainring, problems may arise. The chain does not reach or makes strange sounds - you need to adjust the limiter. There are two bolts behind the switch, each such limiter performs its own function. One marked High (adjusts high gears, on a small sprocket), the other Low (adjusts low gears, on a large sprocket). It happens that there is no marking. Then we focus on the external location of the bolts.
• The High limiter is carefully tightened (fixing the stars of the required size) until the problem disappears (extra sounds, jumps, for example).
• We tighten the Low limiter, also fixing the corresponding stars. With optimal settings, the chain does not jump over the sprocket and does not sound.
• The operation of the front derailleur is checked (the stars click).
• Adjust the tension of the bicycle cable. The regulator responsible for cable tension is located on the shifters, or on the rear derailleur near the cable. If the settings are correct, the entire system should not make any unusual sounds, and there should be no other obvious problems.

How to Adjust Front Derailleur Speed ​​on a Bicycle

• The front derailleur is adjusted in the same way as the rear derailleur. It also has a High and Low control.
• The rear sprocket system switches to a large sprocket. The front star system remains on the middle star. There may be problems with the chain rubbing against the guard. In this case, the Low limiter is adjusted until the problem disappears. You can visually see how this works.
• The High limiter is reconfigured. To do this, on the rear sprockets the chain is dropped onto a small sprocket, and on the front sprockets the largest sprocket is placed.
• If the chain rubs against the protection, we move to adjusting the cable, the regulator of which is located on the steering shifters. The reaction of the system to the movements of the regulator is carefully studied, this will help to better navigate the settings.
• The stars are switched to check for extraneous sounds and unnecessary movements.

How to adjust the speed on a bicycle - chain misalignment

• Occurs due to an incorrect combination of stars during travel, especially uphill. Improper use will not only lead to improper wear of the chain and sprockets, but also to painful knees. Take care of your knees, because the chain and sprockets can be replaced, but the joints cannot be restored!
• Correct combinations of stars: first front star - rear from first to fourth; the second star in front - from the third to the sixth in the back; the third star in front - from the fourth to the smallest star in the back.

The most common reasons that prevent you from changing speed on a bicycle

• Defects on the cable - it may become fluffy.
• The jacket protecting the cable becomes clogged with dirt. Dirt also clogs the chain and rear derailleur.
• Changes in the functionality of switches and the cock when dropped (settings failed, bent).
• Play on the rear derailleur.

Unforeseen situations can happen in any cycling conditions. Therefore, you need to prepare ahead of time. Even at home, we study transport, collect the most necessary tools that will be needed on the road in case of a breakdown. Knowledge is power. If you feel like you might have forgotten the material you’ve covered, but still want to ride, make a small printout so you can quickly remember what’s what on the spot. Download videos to your phone! The nuts must always be securely tightened, but not overtightened.

You bought a bike. After purchase, you need to make some adjustments to make riding enjoyable.

The first thing you need to do is adjust in height saddle. The height of the saddle should be set to the length of a fully straightened leg - the heel should reach the pedal when the pedal is in the lower position. This allows the muscles to rest and increases the efficiency of the cyclist.

Make sure that the seatpost is inserted into the frame at least 10cm. If this is not the case, then either you made a mistake with the frame length, or you would be better off purchasing a longer pin. If the post enters the seat tube at a distance of less than 10cm, then the likelihood of breaking the edge of the seat tube increases greatly; also, if the post is very long, it may bend.

Position of the saddle relative to the handlebar is selected based on the fact that the distance from the front edge of the saddle to the steering column should be equal to the distance from the elbow to the tips of the fingers. This has already been discussed when choosing a bike size, and here you can slightly adjust this distance.

Although there is an opinion that fingers should not reach the column by 1-2 cm, everything is individual and for most cyclists this size is inconvenient. Typically, when selling saddles, they are installed in the middle position, so it is possible to move the saddle forward or backward by 1-1.5 cm.

Also, to determine this distance “scientifically”, you can use the KOPS method: put the pedal at 3 o’clock, put your foot on it and a line drawn vertically down through the center of the knee joint should pass exactly through the axis of the pedal. To increase the cadence (pedaling frequency), you can move the saddle forward from this position by 1 cm. To increase pedaling power, move it back 1-2cm.

Saddle tilt is selected individually. Ideally, the saddle should be parallel to the ground, however, it may be necessary to tilt it forward or backward, depending on the person's anatomy. It is not recommended to lean forward too much, as the load on your hands increases - you begin to “slide” towards the steering wheel, and your hands, accordingly, get tired faster. Leaning back too much can also put extra pressure on the perineum, which can lead to problems, especially in men. Usually, if the horizontal position is uncomfortable, the saddle tilts forward a little.

The width of the saddle is also different for men and women. But “feminine” does not mean “big and soft.” A women's saddle for tourism differs only slightly in width - a woman's pelvic bones are wider than those of men. Although, many saddles are universal. The main thing is that you should sit on the saddle, resting on the pelvic bones, and not on the perineum. The stiffness of the saddle is also individual and do not try to replace the saddle immediately after purchase - the stiffer the saddle, the higher the efficiency, and the inconvenience will go away by the second trip.

Handlebar and stem

Also selected individually. Most likely, if you have chosen the right frame, then you, at least for now, will not need to change anything. In the future, after looking at how someone rides, and if you are not satisfied with something in your riding position, but at the same time you like the frame, then you can try to adjust the bike to yourself by replacing something (stem, handlebars, seatpost, saddle).

However, remember that when developing a frame, the manufacturer relies on calculations, so changing something simply because your hands are itching is not entirely correct, but if you really want to...then it’s better to first listen to the opinions of experts, at least in a cycling club.

Steering wheel also comes in different widths, from 550 to 770mm (for tourism). The wider the handlebars, the easier it is to control the bike when riding over rough terrain. The narrower the steering wheel, the easier it is to spin the bike between bumps and stones, but the more effort you will have to make to maintain control over the bike.

Stem length measured from the axis of the steering tube to the center of the steering wheel mount.

Usually, stems with a length of 60-100mm are installed on a bicycle, but there are stems with a length of 10mm and 140mm. For tourism, 90-100mm stems are usually used. The longer the stem, the more horizontal your landing will be. Well, the worse the handling (agility), but the better the bike goes in a straight line.

If you want to install a stem longer than 120mm, then most likely the frame is simply too short for you - don’t torture yourself or your bike.

Also, stems come with different angles of inclination (height).

It is most convenient for beginners if the landing is vertical, but it is not correct for tourism. If the handlebar is too high, it will make it difficult to move uphill and reduce pedaling efficiency. If the stem is very low, you will improve aerodynamics, however, because... tourism is not a “road race” competition, you can get back pain and extra stress on the perineum. Also, don't try to compensate for stem length by moving the saddle back.

Approximately The height of the handlebars (stem) should be such that your back is tilted to the handlebars from the vertical by 30°.

We tell you how to make your budget mountain bike more reliable, more comfortable and sportier.

Modern budget bikes have become much more reliable and comfortable, but there are still a number of tweaks that can make your bike the best in the segment. Nowadays it’s easy to buy a bike and immediately go to the nearest park to conquer the trail paths, and you will get what you expected, but there will always be room for improvement and upgrade. If you touch a new bike, you will need a number of personal settings, which we will tell you about. And after all this, the question of regular maintenance remains.

If you're new to the world of mountain biking, the following set-up and maintenance tips will help keep your bike in top running condition and save you money.

Adjust the speed switches

Inexpensive bikes come with entry-level shifters that aren't always fast or smooth, but should at least operate smoothly and without any chain slippage. If the derailleur isn't keeping the chain in the right gear, you'll need to adjust them. Adjust the derailleurs and limiters, or take them to your nearest bicycle repair shop. Often, poor gear shifting is due to the fact that the switch drive cables clogged with mud, or bent, and the cable simply cannot move freely inside (1).

Also, unclear gear shifting may be due to a bent (2) rear derailleur. It's very easy to bend the cock: just fall off the bike, or put it on the right side (on which the speed switches are attached). Often, a bent rooster is the result of unsafe transportation. That is why the cages for the rear derailleurs have a removable design, so that in case of deformation, you do not have to change the expensive frame, but only change (straighten) the cage. If you have a bent cock, you should contact a bicycle repair shop to straighten it or replace it.

Adjust or replace the saddle

A standard saddle and its installation during pre-sale assembly in a store are not always correct. The shape, position and height of the saddle are highly individual. What is comfortable for one person is not necessarily comfortable for another. If the saddle feels uncomfortable, try adjusting its position and height, or go to your local bike shop for a new saddle. A comfortable saddle doesn't have to be expensive. Some stores may offer a "try before you buy" service.

This is especially true for women who use men's (universal) bicycle models. Men's and women's saddles are very different, this is due to the physiology of men and women. Women find wider saddles with additional comfort inserts more comfortable. Modern women's saddles are designed in such a way that they leave the necessary freedom of movement, providing excellent comfort during prolonged use.

Get rid of plastic pedals

Most entry-level mountain bikes come with simple plastic pedals. This is because pedals are an individual accessory that depends on your preferences. For example, some use platform pedals, while others use contact pedals. Thus, the bicycle manufacturer assumes that you will soon change the pedals to suit your riding style. By the way, this is why all expensive bicycles are sold without pedals.

If your bike has cheap plastic pedals, invest in new, durable platform pedals, or clipless pedals with cycling shoes. This will significantly improve your bike control level.

Replace grips with good ones

Check the chain after every ride

Inexpensive bicycles are equipped with a transmission with minimal corrosion protection. To prevent premature wear, it is important to keep the chain clean and lubricated. The more you ride in dirty conditions, the more maintenance your transmission will require. Use special cleaning products to clean the chain of old lubricant - degreasers (4). We have collected recommendations for lubrication and maintenance of a bicycle chain.

Update the eccentrics

Budget bikes often use cheap ones (5), which can easily fail without constant checks and maintenance. We won’t scare you about the consequences of a broken eccentric while riding. Just check the eccentrics and regularly lubricate the rubbing mechanisms. But it would be best to replace cheap eccentrics with high-quality ones.

Keep dusters clean

All shock absorbers, bushings and rotating joints run on lubricant. To prevent dirt from getting inside the shock absorbers and bearings, sealing boots are used. While riding a bicycle, dust and dirt accumulate on the working surface of the mechanisms, around the anthers. If the seals are not cleaned, dirt can get inside the shock absorbers and bushings, causing damage to the working surfaces and ultimately failure of the entire part.

Regularly clean the working surface of the suspension fork legs from dust and dirt, and also clean accumulated dirt around the O-rings and boots. Use durable silicone-based spray lubricants to protect the surface and improve glide.

Don't skimp on maintenance

If you want to get the most out of your bike, don't skimp on regular maintenance. Increased wear and tear are often associated with simple neglect and savings on maintenance. Most problems can be prevented by periodically inspecting the condition of the bicycle and correcting any problems found. Every year, contact a professional bicycle repair shop for comprehensive maintenance, regularly check the condition of the bicycle, and before each ride, check the tire pressure, brake and shock absorber operation, and gear shifting. Find out more about the need for bike maintenance and recommended timings.

Understand that even if your bike is inexpensive, this does not mean that you will enjoy using it any less. As long as the bike works well, it's always a great pleasure.

Terms in the article

(1) Shirt(cable) is a multi-layer braided cable with high longitudinal compression resistance, used for mechanical drive of speed switches and brakes.

(2) Rooster(rear derailleur) - this is the attachment of the rear derailleur to the bicycle frame. Typically, the cock is a separate part that is easy (and inexpensive) to replace.

(3) Grips(handlebars) - handles with a soft and/or rubberized surface that fit on the handlebars and provide comfortable, safe and reliable control of the bicycle in any conditions.

(4) Degreaser- a product that removes old grease and dirt. Often used for bicycle transmission.

(5) Eccentric(axle) - a mechanism with a lever for quick installation (dismantling) of a bicycle wheel.

Photo gallery

Even if your bike is inexpensive, this does not mean that you will enjoy using it any less. As long as the bike works well, it's always a great pleasure. Photo (Colin Levitch/Immediate Media)

Inexpensive bikes come with entry-level shifters that aren't always fast or smooth, but should at least operate smoothly and without any chain slippage. Photo (Colin Levitch/Immediate Media)

Are you buying a bike, but don’t know what size to choose or how to customize it? We will help you.

Just as you go to a shoe store and choose the type and size of shoes, you should also choose a bicycle; depending on the type, the sizes of bicycles vary.

SIZE IS DETERMINED BY THE UPPER HEIGHT OF THE FRAME

PERSON HEIGHT, CM	FRAME GROWTH
	MOUNTAIN BIKE	TRACK BIKE	ROAD BIKE	RACING BIKE
165	16" (S)	46-48 cm	48-50 cm	50-52 cm
170	16-18” (S-M)	48-50 cm	50-52 cm	53-55 cm
175	18" (M)	50-52 cm	52-55 cm	55-57 cm
180	18-20” (M-L)	52-55 cm	56-58 cm	57-59 cm
185	20-22” (L-XL)	56-58 cm	59-60 cm	59-61 cm
190 and >	22” (XL)	58-61 cm	60-64 cm	61-64 cm

*note: we also strongly recommend that you consult with sellers.

HAVE YOU DECIDED ON THE TYPE AND SIZE OF YOUR BIKE?

GREAT, LET'S MOVE ON!

Now let's move on to the basic bike settings:

SADDLE

The height of the saddle should be such that the legs at the lowest point of the pedal are almost in a straight position, while the soles of the feet should confidently touch the pedal with their entire surface. The meaning is this: “with each revolution of the pedals, the knee joint must relax or you will get tired quickly.” When adjusting the inclination of the saddle forward/backward, you must sit confidently on the saddle and not roll to the sides left/right, forward/backwards while riding (the ischial tuberosities also do not roll to the sides) - this will help not to disturb the blood flow. Unfortunately, there is no single standard for saddle adjustment for cyclists.

LEFT IS RIGHT | RIGHT IS WRONG

BRAKE LEVERS AND GEAR SPEEDS (SHIFTERS)

The brake levers should be located at an angle of 45°C; this will help in almost any situation; you can reach them with two fingers (for convenience, mentally draw a horizontal line parallel to the floor and measure the angle, as shown in the figure). Place gear speeds close to the brake levers. This adjustment of the brake levers and shifters will give you the ability to brake and change gears easily and quickly (if necessary, do this at the same time).

ADJUSTING THE HEIGHT OF THE STEERING WHEEL

Choose the stem (height) of the steering wheel according to your cycling style, that is:

- when driving fast, minimal offset - increases maneuverability, lowers the center of gravity;

- during normal driving, the offset is higher - the ride is more comfortable.

SUSPENSION FORKS

Depending on your weight, if you weigh:

- less than 60 kg - soft fork shock absorption;

- more than 60 kg - the fork damping is a little stiffer;

- from 70 kg - hard fork shock absorption.

Fork damping is adjusted on the suspension fork itself (see picture)

Also on different types of suspension forks you can find inscriptions that indicate the following settings:

RELOAD – adjusts the spring stiffness (if the shock absorption is too soft, you may bounce on minor bumps, which leads to an uncomfortable ride);

LOCKOUT – locking the fork shock absorption (recommended for smooth road surfaces);

REBOUND - rebound (when the shock absorber rod is extended when absorbing holes), can be located and adjusted both inside and outside the suspension fork. There are rebound systems with automatic settings;

COMPRESSION – reduces the compression rate of the fork (this setting is rare on forks);

EXTENSION CONTROL – adjusting the stroke length of the suspension fork (in some models it is located on the bicycle handlebars)