How to lubricate skis at home for better glide? Basic ski preparation Preparing new plastic skis

First, a few words for those completely ignorant of ski lubrication. There are two main types of lubricants: sliding lubricants and holding lubricants. For a classic ride, the nose and heel of the ski are lubricated sliding lubricants, usually with paraffins, and the central part of the ski (block) lubricated with holding ointment so that there is no recoil. The length of the last is approximately 50 cm from the heel of the boot, placed in the mount, forward to the toe of the ski. For beginners, you can lengthen the block by another 10-15 cm to the tip of the ski. (I have heard how people were advised to smear the back (!!!) of their skis to avoid recoil.)

Skating skis are lubricated along their entire length with glide lubricants.

The choice and purchase of lubricants and lubrication tools depends on how you intend to ride. If the main goal is hiking on weekends, then the arsenal of tools and, most importantly, the time spent preparing skis is greatly reduced. If you are going to race, then you will have to invest money and precious time.

If you have read materials from Swix or other companies on ski preparation, you can estimate how much time it will take minimum professional preparation of one pair: cleaning with soft paraffin (application, removal with a plastic scraper, brushing), then applying 1-2 layers of weathering paraffin (application, cooling the ski to room temperature for at least 10 minutes), removing with a plastic scraper, brushing, polishing) . That is, at least half an hour you will be fiddling with one pair. Plus additional “pleasures” - the smell (though not strong), scraping off paraffin on the floor. If you have carpets on the floor, that's the end of the carpets. Once a friend and I were preparing skis at his house, we rolled up the rug, then, of course, we put everything away, but some remnants of paraffin apparently remained on the floor, and the rug began to slide wildly... I remember the kind words of his wife... In short, we need space where to turn around and not disturb anyone for at least 30-40 minutes, otherwise the paraffin residues will be spread throughout the apartment, especially in winter, when due to dryness and static electricity these residues tend to stick to everything. It happens that while you are busy with the preparation, your family loses all desire to ride. This is only for diehard fanatic skiers. Fortunately, there are alternative options that are cheap and have good results; they will be written about in the following sections.

In order to have an idea about the process of professional ski preparation, read A. Grushin’s article “How to prepare skis?” from the magazine "Ski Racing" No. 5. Or pick up the SWIX Nordic ski preparation brochure from the Fisher store.

Ski slip ointments

Sliding lubricants come in different types. Paraffins are most often used, and in professional sports they also use accelerators (powders or compressed), emulsions, pastes, etc. Such lubricants are quite expensive, but are consumed quite quickly. Therefore, if you are not going to race professionally, then do not buy expensive imported lubricants. In most cases, domestic ones are no worse, and often better (except that some go faster than imported ones). The shelf life of paraffins is practically unlimited. But there is no point in taking a lot. And many different brands and types are also not needed - the problem of choice inevitably arises - which is better for today's weather... In professional lubricants, this is solved by rolling out paraffins, but those who like to torment themselves with a choice have no need.

If the climate in the area where you live is humid, then it is better for you to buy fluorinated paraffins. For example, for Moscow, where air humidity in winter is most often above 50%. If the humidity is generally below 50%, then you will be fine with fluoride-free paraffins.

Among the inexpensive domestic ones, we can mention Uktus, Luch, VISTI, MVIS, FESTA paraffins. For Moscow, you can take the MVIS Marathon kit - it will suit you just fine. (These lubricants are rolled out in the Moscow region, and they work well there). It is inexpensive (almost 50-60 rubles), and works well in most cases. This is a set of light fluoride paraffins (with a small fluorine content) for three temperature ranges. It’s also worth taking tablets - the MVIS accelerator. They have No. 238 for sunny weather for temperatures -9+5, lasts up to 100 km. It is not often sunny weather in which it is really good, but it will also go in cloudy weather, although worse. In my opinion, its main advantage for an amateur is the ease of application and durability of the lubricant. Once you apply it cold, you can ride for a month. It costs about 350 rubles, but is spent very economically - it will last for many years.

For humid climates, fluoridated gels, pastes, sprays or emulsions are good. Apply to the sliding surface using a cotton swab or spray, dry or heat with a hairdryer, then polish. Fast and convenient. Disadvantages: a little expensive, quickly consumed, lasts up to 10-15 km.

Ski holding ointments

Holding ointments come in solid (in jars) and liquid (in tubes). The holding ointment must satisfy two requirements. First, the ointment should allow you to push. When pushing under the block, additional pressure is created on the snow, and snow crystals enter the layer of holding ointment, the ski “sticks” to the snow, which allows you to push. After the push, the crystals should come out of the ointment, allowing the ski to glide. When a skier glides on one ski, pressure under the block is also present, but the ointment should allow him to glide on one ski and “brake” only at the moment of push. Therefore, selecting the optimal holding ointment that provides the best combination of grip and glide is not an easy task in professional sports. Alternating layers of different ointments, applying them in a checkerboard pattern and other techniques are used.

Amateurs can smear themselves easier. In order not to fool your head, I will give the simplest rule: for most sub-zero weather conditions and inexpensive holding ointments (Uktus, MVIS, VISTI, inexpensive (fluorine-free) imported SWIX, START, RODE, etc.) you need to put ointment, the lower limit of the temperature range of which is 3-4 degrees higher than the current temperature. For example, if it is now -5, then put the ointment -1+1 or -2-0. Since the condition of the snow, and therefore its retention, depends not only on temperature, but also on air humidity, wind, old or new snow, and even the region, always take with you a plastic rub (the so-called “cork”) and a warmer ointment and colder than the one smeared at home. If you don't get into the ointment, then if it slows down too much, put a colder one on top; if it doesn't hold well, put a warmer one on top. (To improve grip, you can also lengthen the lubrication zone of the block forward to the tip of the ski.) It takes a couple of minutes to get smeared, and you will enjoy skiing for the rest of the time. Since snow is different everywhere, for a specific region this rule can be adjusted in terms of the value of the shift in the temperature of the ointment relative to the air temperature. Don't be afraid to experiment and you'll quickly discover what works best for you.

For an amateur, 3-4 jars of ointment will be enough, covering the temperature range from +3 to -15 degrees. If you smear yourself at home, then before applying a new holding ointment, it is advisable to remove the remnants of the old ointment with a plastic scraper. It is better to apply the ointment in 2-3 thin layers, rubbing each layer with a cork.

Liquid ointments are more often called klisters. The klister is applied in a thin strip on both sides of the groove and leveled with a plastic scraper (this is difficult to do in the cold, better at home).

A klister may be needed for above-zero temperatures. But it gets very dirty. Before you put your skis in the case when you go skiing, wrap them in plastic so as not to damage the case. In addition, after skiing, the klister thaws and if the skis are standing vertically, then it begins to slowly flow down them. So after riding, it is better to immediately remove the klister using a remover (gasoline, or even a scraper and a dry cloth).

At sub-zero temperatures, solid ointments usually work well. But under certain weather conditions, you may encounter some problems:

· Podlip. At transition temperatures (about 0 degrees) and with fresh, especially falling, snow, you may encounter “sticking” - the snow will stick to the ointment and turn into a thick snowball under the block.

· Icing (freezing) of the ointment. At negative temperatures (more often at transitional -2 -0, but it also happens at -25) the ointment may begin to “ice up” - snow crystals, instead of completely leaving the ointment layer after a shock, begin to break off, leaving the ends in the ointment, and an ice crust appears on its surface. More often this is due to the fact that the ointment is softer (warmer) than necessary. This can also happen if you start skiing immediately after leaving home, when the skis are even warmer than the surrounding air. If the air temperature is below 0 degrees, but the snowflakes on the ski turn into water, it’s too early to ski. In addition, the ointment that has not cooled down can quickly disappear. Allow the skis (and wax) to cool to ambient temperature for 10-15 minutes.

· The condition of the snow in the ski track and outside it can be different, so the ointment that allowed you to roll normally in the ski track can greatly slow you down when leaving it. You can also feel the difference in grip and glide when riding in sunny areas and in the shade, such as in the forest.

Necessary tools for preparing skis and their substitutes

Now about the necessary set of tools. If you look at the SWIX (or other company) manual for preparing skis, you get the impression that you need to additionally purchase a whole suitcase of all sorts of tools and materials for the skis. This is really necessary for professional ski training. But an amateur can get by with a much more modest set of tools.

If you take skis with a racing base (as the sliding surface is sometimes called), which is made of high-molecular sintered plastic, then the main tool is a ski iron, the rest can be made from improvised means. The fact is that a household iron has a very large hysteresis loop at the thermostat - the paraffin either smokes or barely melts. And at high temperatures, you automatically burn out the base (sliding surface), that is, you melt the pores, and the paraffin stops being absorbed into the base. And there is no point in buying expensive skis (see Steve Poulin’s article “Use your iron correctly”). A good ski iron can be bought for 60-70 dollars.

New skis, regardless of whether you then use hot wax application or not, are still better to treat them the first time using an iron. In extreme cases, you can get by with a household iron (just don’t ruin a good one, take an old old one, without holes in the sole). In this case, be careful - have a large damp cloth on hand. If the paraffin suddenly begins to smoke, you can quickly lower the temperature of the soleplate of the iron by applying a rag to it and avoid burning the plastic. Primary treatment is performed with soft plus paraffin without fluorine, the melting point of which is 65-75 degrees, which also reduces the risk of burnout. Set the iron's thermostat to the minimum at which the paraffin melts normally, and begin to warm up the ski, moving the iron smoothly and without pressure from the toe to the heel of the ski. Make sure that it does not overheat and that there is a layer of paraffin between the iron and the ski at all times. It is better to use a household iron sideways, with the wide part of the sole. This option is suitable if you do not plan to constantly apply paraffins with an iron.

· Plastic scraper for removing excess paraffin. You can buy a branded one for 3-4 dollars, or you can replace it with a piece of a transparent school ruler, plexiglass, etc. 2-4 mm thick. In this case, you need to do the following: place fine sandpaper on a flat surface with the abrasive facing up, and straighten the sandpaper with a ruler so that the edges are sharp and straight, and there are no burrs or irregularities. In addition, grind the corners of the ruler into a semicircle on the sandpaper (the edges should remain sharp). Fit these angles to the groove of your skis so that you can then remove the wax from the groove. If you have several pairs of skis, then adjust the angles to suit different pairs. Look at branded scrapers in the store to get an idea of ​​what you should end up with.

· A nylon brush is used to remove remaining paraffin after it has been removed with a scraper. If you will use hot paraffin application, then a fairly stiff brush is necessary. To do this, I had to use household brushes such as “iron” or a hand brush with stiff nylon bristles. “Sand is an unimportant substitute for oats,” but you can also remove excess paraffin.

· Coarse Fibertex (fibertex), for example, SWIX T265 - is needed when preparing new skis to remove lint from the plastic remaining after machine grinding of the sliding surface. (In fact, the residual lint will come off on its own after a few months of riding). Fibertex is not too expensive. Household abrasive plates that are approximately the same in appearance may not contain the same abrasive and only add lint. But there are also almost complete analogues. But to buy it or not to buy it... Probably not necessary.

· Fiberlene is a non-woven material used for final polishing of skis. In general, it is not needed; you can polish your skis with an old nylon stocking. Or a piece of felt. Finally, an old woolen sock.

· SWIX sandpaper No. 100 is used for sanding classic ski lasts so that the wax adheres better. Need not. Any household sandpaper of the appropriate grain size will do. In general, you need to sand under the block if you are running more than 20-30 km or on ice.

· Swix T-89 razor scraper, used for removing lint - not needed by an amateur.

· Metal cycle. It is unlikely that you will cycle yourself - the process requires skill, and, most importantly, a ski machine in which the ski is rigidly attached. Modern skis are produced with an applied structure, which should not be sanded. A cycle is only needed to remove burnt plastic. And it’s as easy as shelling pears to ruin a ski when scraping - your hand trembles and there’s a wave or a scratch. Amateurs don't need it.

· Knurling is used to apply a structure to a sliding surface. Amateurs don't need it. The universal structure applied at the factory is sufficient.

· A copper brush is needed to remove frosty paraffins. If you are willing to put up with a slight deterioration in gliding by using warmer paraffin, then you don’t need it. If you apply hard frosty paraffin, you will have to take it. Or use a frost gel or accelerator that is applied in a very thin layer and does not require the use of a stiff brush.

· The wash is used to remove the holding ointment under the block. Also suitable for washing off sliding paraffin if it is not possible to use hot ski cleaning. Preferably. This is generally a useful thing in everyday life - it just didn’t have to be cleaned.

· Rubbing (cork) is used to level out holding ointments. Plastic is better for ointments. Cork can be used to apply accelerators. Definitely needed.

Additional ski accessories

Another desirable item is a ski bag. Firstly, there will be a place to store your skis, and, most importantly, you will not get dirty with the holding ointment while you get to the ski track. It is very difficult to remove it from clothes without a solvent or remover. Good domestic cases cost from 200 rubles. Take a case for 2-3 pairs. It holds both skis and poles.

It's a good idea to take Velcro ski ties. There is less risk that the sliding surface of the ski will be damaged during transportation by poles or bindings of another pair. If you walk close to the ski track, then you can carry your skis without a cover. Skis that are tied together are more difficult to get dirty on. The skis are tied in such a way that the soft lining of the bundle is between the sliding surfaces of the skis; they should not touch.

Rags. To treat your skis you will need old cotton rags. They wipe the sole of the iron dry after applying paraffins, clean scrapers and other tools, remove the holding ointment using a remover, brush away the remaining paraffin after passing through the scraper and brushes, and so on. At worst, you can even polish your ski after applying paraffins with a rag without pressing hard.

How to store skis

Since most ski models, especially mass-produced ones, use wood, you should not store skis near heat sources or on a sunny balcony. My friend put a cover with skis on the glassed-in balcony on the sunny side for the summer. And one pair of skis sucked; it was good that they were inexpensive. Lubricants should also not be stored near heat sources or in the sun.

Simplified ski lubrication technologies

You can read about the intricacies of applying hot lubricants (using a ski iron) in Steve Paulin’s article “Use the iron correctly” from LS No.... In particular, he does not recommend using household irons for this purpose - you can easily burn the plastic of expensive skis. But you can apply slip lubricants without an iron.

You can try this method (I experimented): take a metal ladle with a lid, say, a liter one. It should not be enameled, but a purely metal ladle with a smooth, even bottom, preferably aluminum - it has high thermal conductivity. Boil water, pour 2/3 of the ladle, no more, so as not to accidentally scald yourself. Cover the ladle with a lid to avoid getting burned by the steam. This combination will replace the iron when using soft paraffins during the initial treatment of skis or when lubricating with heat and a slight minus. As a rule, such paraffins have a melting point significantly lower than 100 degrees Celsius. Paraffin must first be rubbed in a thick layer onto the sliding surface, and the ski must lie horizontally, with the sliding surface facing up, for example, on two stools.

Boiling water and a ladle that conducts heat well are enough to melt low-melting paraffin. Of course, you can’t put frosty paraffin like that, but there will be a 100% guarantee against burning the base. Change the water as it cools. Make several slow passes from the tip to the end of the ski. But keep in mind that this method has a significant drawback - you can accidentally turn the ladle over and get scalded. Therefore, for regular use, it is better to purchase a ski iron.

Another way. Paraffin can be applied by vigorous rubbing. First of all, clean your ski. If there is a clear layer of old wax on the ski, then lightly go through it with a plastic scraper and/or a nylon brush. Rub a clean ski with a very thin continuous layer of paraffin (it is convenient to control this by looking at the reflection of the ski from the window). It doesn’t even have to be a completely continuous layer. Then take the cork rub and rub it intensively in both directions for 1-2 minutes. The heat generated is enough to partially fuse the paraffin into the base. Then brush lightly from the tip to the tail of the ski. The time required is minimal. There is practically no dirt, no machine required. On regular snow it will last at least 10 km.

There is such a thing - thermal rubbing from the TOKO company - this is a piece of dense felt with a fine structure, glued to sponge rubber. This combination supposedly generates enough heat to cold apply the accelerators. Simulated with a thick synthetic felt insole wrapped around a small flat piece of wood. It can also be used as an alternative to cork rubbing when applying paraffins using the cold method.

What ski waxes to buy for ski preparation

Depending on your level of training and the thickness of your wallet, there are three sets of lube that are sufficient for riding.

Minimum.

Solid holding ointment

This set will be enough for you to comfortably walk through the forest on plastic skis without recoil or slipping. It is not at all necessary to buy paraffins, irons, brushes and other tools. It is quite enough to buy a set of holding ointments (for example, VISTI or Sviks) and lubricate the skis only under the block, rubbing them with a cork so that there is no kickback. For walking, believe me, this is quite enough; the skis will glide even without paraffin.

Here is what is included in the required minimum kit:

3 - 4 jars (briquettes) holding ointment, covering the temperature range from 0 to -15 degrees (adjust depending on the region), and one cork or synthetic rubbing.

Synthetic cork

Ointments and rubbing will cost you 100 - 200 rubles. If money allows, buy an additional plastic scraper (about 90 rubles) and a bottle of branded cleaner (about 300 rubles). However, the scraper and its substitutes were written above. You can do without a wash. Either without it at all, that is, removing the old ointment with a scraper, or replacing it with a bottle of kerosene or gasoline. (You can clean your skis, which, in general, is completely optional, with a piece of cotton wool soaked in gasoline. And the main “everyday” advantage of the wash is the absence of a strong odor.)

Just please keep in mind that with such a lubricant (solid ointments) you should not go out on the ski slopes at above-zero temperatures, because at above-zero temperatures you will need liquid holding ointments (klisters).

Sufficient.

Liquid holding ointment

This kit will allow you to competently and fully care for your skis. This set will be enough not only for comfortable riding through the forest in any weather, but also for participation in most mass ski races such as “Russian Ski Track”. It includes the same things as the minimum kit, plus a set of inexpensive paraffins, an iron, a brush, a can of remover, a plastic scraper, and a set of inexpensive liquid ointments. Such a kit will cost a more significant amount - from 3,000 rubles. It is highly advisable to add a special ski machine to this kit - it will allow you not only to prepare your skis very well, but also to enjoy this process. (If you wish, you can make the machine yourself from scraps of wood, scraps of a tourist rug or something similar, and several pieces of iron and screws for securing the skis).

Advanced.

This kit may be needed by a fairly advanced and trained skier, so in many ways the following information may already be known to him from previous publications in L.S., from a coach or from some other sources. However, we present this list as well. To all of the above you can add a set of holding ointments with fluorine content(solid and liquid), as well as paraffins with fluorine content(this lubricant is especially effective in conditions of high humidity). You can also buy antistatic paraffins (needed to remove static tension from the sliding surface of skis), accelerators (powdered and tablet-form pure fluorocarbons), knurls (for applying a weather-appropriate structure to the sliding surface), sprays and emulsions. In addition, keep in mind that advanced skiers try to have lubricants from different companies in their arsenal, since ointments from often completely different manufacturers work well in different weather conditions. In general, this kit is already for an advanced skier, and its cost increases many times over compared to the cost of the first two kits combined.

The most popular is skiing. To avoid problems while skiing and to make the movement comfortable, you need to take care of your equipment in advance. There are several options for special ski lubricants that need to be selected individually.

Why lubricate your skis?

This question arises among beginner skiers, since many consider this procedure unnecessary. During driving, a frictional force is created, which depends on the quality of the equipment and the condition of the snow. To reduce it, lubrication is carried out. There is another reason why wooden skis and equipment made from other materials should be lubricated, since the use of ointment prevents slipping back during the push. Thanks to the application of a special product, the middle part of the ski sticks well to the snow. With constant use of lubricants, the service life of equipment can be extended.

Which skis don't need lubrication?

There are different opinions regarding whether preparing equipment is mandatory. If we turn to the competent opinion of specialists, they, discussing whether it is necessary to lubricate skis, say that if you want to enjoy perfect gliding, then it is recommended to carry out a simple lubrication procedure before each walk. In addition, this will allow you to preserve the equipment for a long time.

How can you lubricate skis at home?

In stores and other points of sale you can find many different products designed for ski fans. If a person does not plan to engage in it seriously, then there will be no need to spend money on expensive formulations presented in the form of aerosols or branded paraffins. For those who are interested in how to lubricate their skis for better glide, a wide range of different ointments are offered.

Such products are presented in two types: for better glide and grip. Beginning athletes can use universal kits from well-known brands: Visti, Swix or Briko. All products are color coded according to the temperature at which they must be used. If the temperature is above zero, then liquid formulations are used. For negative values, the following classification applies:

• 0 to -2 – purple color;
• -2 to -8 – blue;
• -5 to -12 – light green;
• -10 to -25 – dark green;
• -15 to -30 – black.

When figuring out how to lubricate skis, you need to pay attention to common paraffins, which, according to their properties, are divided into options for sliding and securing. It is worth knowing how to lubricate your skis so that the snow does not stick in the absence of other means, you can use wax and paraffin from candles, but medical grade is better. There is a widespread belief among people that you can use soap, but in reality it will not do any good.

How to lubricate skis at home?

To care for your own equipment, you don’t need to turn to specialists, because, knowing some of the subtleties, you can carry out all the procedures yourself at home. For those interested in how to properly lubricate skis, you should know that it is important to consider not only the material from which the equipment is made, but also the style of intended riding.

How to lubricate plastic skis?

If such equipment was purchased, then it is necessary to apply lubricant to a clean and dry surface at room temperature. When understanding this, it is worth considering the basic rules:

1. When using a solid ointment, apply it in several layers, rubbing each of them. After this, leave everything to cool and apply the last layer outdoors.
2. It is recommended to carry out the test after walking a couple of kilometers, and if necessary, the product should be changed. Those who are interested in why plastic skis need to be lubricated should know that without this, the glide will not be as good.
3. For classic skating, it is customary to apply paraffin or gliding ointments, but only to the back or front, but the central area is lubricated with holding agents.
4. When using paraffin, it is applied in drops, leveling them with an iron. After this, it is cooled and removed with a scraper. Finally, treatment is carried out with a nylon brush.
5. There is another important topic - how to lubricate plastic skis with notches. Such equipment does not require lubrication, but over time the notches wear off and then paraffin should be applied.

How and with what to lubricate semi-plastic skis?

This type of equipment is made of wood, but a plastic plate is applied on top of the sliding surface, which protects against wear. In operation it is the same as for products made of plastic. For those who want to know how to lubricate skis so that there is no kickback, then you should use the recommendations described above for the plastic version.

How to properly lubricate wooden skis?

If you have equipment made of wood, it will be impossible to do without lubricating it, which is applied to a dry and clean surface. First you need to carry out priming, for which paraffin is used and it is better to take a candle-tablet. You need to rub harder, and then run a hot iron on top. Remove any excess that is not absorbed. This procedure should be carried out before each trip to the snow. Instructions on how to wax skis are as follows:

1. Lay the equipment downside down on a flat surface and clean them with a rag.
2. Hold the heated iron 2.5 cm above the skis and start processing from the edge. Apply a little wax to the iron itself until it melts and drips. Walk it over the entire surface.
3. At the bottom, perform back-and-forth movements with light pressure. The resulting layer of wax should harden, and then, using a scraper, remove it, moving from the highest point to the bottom.
4. An important step in the instructions on how to lubricate wooden skis is to treat the entire surface with a special brush, making only translational movements and applying slight pressure on the tool.
5. Skis should be taken out into the cold for several hours, and then left overnight at room temperature.

How to lubricate combination skis?

Some manufacturers have created special combination equipment that is suitable for both classic and free style. It is worth noting that you can find them on the market less and less often. To choose an easy way to lubricate your skis, you need to consider what running style will be used in a particular case. Processing schemes will be described below.

How to properly lubricate cross-country skis?

For amateur skiing, you can simply use special ointments that are selected depending on weather conditions. They should be 2-3 degrees higher than the outside temperature. Lubricate the pad area with ointment, applying 2-3 layers, rubbing each layer with light movements. Finally, it is recommended to leave the equipment for 10-15 minutes. cool down. After riding, using a scraper and rinsing, the remaining product must be removed. The diagram on how to lubricate cross-country skis with paraffin is more complex.

1. First they need to be mounted on a table or machine. At the first stage, the process of “hot” cleaning is carried out.
2. Using an iron heated to the minimum melting temperature of paraffin, smooth out the melted lubricant. It is important to avoid delays.
3. Without allowing the paraffin to harden, clean it using a scraper and a stiff brush. The final layer should be 0.5-1 mm.
4. After this, paraffin is applied taking into account weather conditions. The procedure is similar to the steps described above, and after removing the residue, the skis should cool for half an hour.
5. Using a scraper or nylon brush, remove remaining paraffin, bringing the surface to a shine.

How to lubricate skis for classic skiing?

Fans of this kind of skating should use slip and grip ointments. The first is usually applied to the sliding surface, and the second to the last (the area in the middle, which is determined from the heel of the shoe plus 15-20 cm). For those interested in how to lubricate skis, you should know the following information:

1. At the first stages of treatment, cleaning is carried out, and then a gliding ointment is applied.
2. After this, treat the block with a holder ointment, which must be selected based on the temperature and humidity of the snow.
3. If it’s warm, then use liquid products, and if it’s cold, then use solid ones. In the second case, a grinding plug is used.
4. It is important to consider that grip and glide ointments should not be mixed.
5. After applying the first layer, the product must be given time to set, and only then re-lubrication is carried out.
6. The preparation is completed by polishing with a nylon brush.
7. Another important point is how to lubricate skis with paraffin; it is applied only to the ends of the equipment.

How to lubricate skating skis?

Processing equipment for such riding is simpler, since only gliding ointments are used. Not for professionals, one layer of ointment, selected according to air temperature, will be enough. As in the previously described treatment schemes, the surface is cleaned. After this, you can proceed to the instructions, which concern how to properly lubricate skis at home:

1. First, heat the iron to the temperature indicated on the paraffin wax.
2. Place the block on the surface of the iron and move it so that the drops of paraffin are evenly distributed.
3. After this, run the iron from heel to toe to completely melt the wax. A uniform shine will indicate that everything was done correctly.
4. An important step in the instructions regarding how to lubricate skis with paraffin at home is to remove excess with a scraper after the layer has hardened. Move against the direction of the ride. Finish the procedure with polishing.

How to lubricate skis?

Before going out into the snow, it is necessary to hot-treat the equipment, which will help fill the pores. The procedure for lubricating skis is similar to the options described above. First, dirt and existing unevenness are removed. Be sure to lubricate everything with a degreasing compound. At the next stage, apply the blue ointment hot, and then, after it hardens, remove excess with a scraper. You can also use liquid ointments that are spread with a sponge.

If you don’t apply it, you won’t go. This wisdom has a direct bearing on skiing. Ski preparation is necessary not only for competitive athletes, but also for those who like to spend a weekend skiing. If you don’t want to send it to a service center every time, you need to learn how to lubricate your skis yourself. Today we will talk about how to prepare skis, namely: how to lubricate skis with quick-apply lubricants, how to wax cross-country skis and what you need for this.

How to wax skis without an iron?

Quick application lubricants are inexpensive emulsions, creams, pastes that are applied in a couple of minutes. They do not impregnate a deeply sliding surface, so they will work for about 5-7 km. Such “lazy” lubricants are intended for people who use skis from time to time.

The instructions are the same for everyone:

• Apply an even layer to the entire sliding surface
• wait 2-3 minutes
• rub with natural cork or felt

There are expensive high-fluoride emulsions, pastes and creams. The principle of use is the same, but they are much more expensive. Using expensive racing lubricants using a quick application method, in our opinion, simply does not make sense. Racing emulsions, pastes and creams are used only after priming the ski with paraffin.

• Pros: fast, easy, convenient
• Minuses: The grease comes off the skis quickly and does not increase the service life of the skis.

Example of applying lubricant from Swix

In the video, a classic ski is smudged. Skate ones are smeared in the same way, but over the entire length.

How to wax skating skis?

This method of lubricating skis requires more time and tools. However, it is the most effective and most common among skiers. It is used both in training for ski care and in high-level competitions as a stand-alone lubricant or primer for accelerators. This method of preparing skis will be discussed below.

Ski Preparation Tools

Ski preparation profile

It consists of 2 stops with a loop for fastening.

Iron

When preparing, it is better to use a special ski iron. It differs from household ones in temperature conditions and soles. As an economical option, you can use an old household iron, but there is a risk of burning the sliding surface.

Several brushes

Ski brushes differ from household ones in the stiffness and length of the bristles. In any case, simple ski brushes are inexpensive and every amateur skier can afford a minimum set. An ideal set consists of 3 brushes: thin metal, medium-hard nylon, soft nylon. If it is not possible to purchase 3 brushes, then you can get by with one medium nylon brush.

Scrapers

Ski scrapers are the same for all manufacturers. They differ only in thickness - 3 mm and 5 mm. Choose which one is more comfortable in your hands, there is no fundamental difference. You will also need a scraper for the groove (can be replaced with the body of a ballpoint pen or marker).

Paraffins

Ski waxes are divided into 3 groups: CH (fluoride-free), LF (low fluoride), HF (high fluoride).

The higher the air humidity, the more fluoride you need. And the more fluorine, the more expensive the paraffin. For ski care and weekend skiing with the family, CH is enough. If you want better gliding, then you need HF. LF – middle option. In general, the budget decides here. The main thing is to apply paraffin at the appropriate temperature.

How to prepare skate skis?

1. Clean the plastic from dirt with a thin wire brush. 3-5 passes from toe to heel will be enough.
2. Apply paraffin and melt with an iron on the ski. Don't forget that plastic melts at a temperature of 135 degrees, and some paraffins have a much higher melting point. Therefore, the iron does not need to be held in place. Run the iron from toe to heel for no more than 8-10 seconds, then repeat the procedure 3-4 times to evenly melt the paraffin.
3. Let the plastic cool to room temperature. At this time, apply paraffin to the second ski.
4. Remove the paraffin from the groove, and then from the edges and from the entire sliding surface. The paraffin from the groove is always removed first. So, if the scraper breaks, the sliding surface will not be damaged.
5. Clean off the residue with a thin metal brush, or if you don’t have a metal brush, use a medium-hard nylon brush. Same as in the first stage, 3-5 passes from toe to heel.
6. Polish with nylon brushes. First medium, then soft polishing. If there are no polishing agents, then after stage 5 the preparation is complete.

How to wax skis: video instructions

This video shows the best way to apply paraffin. Note:

• paraffin is applied using the drop method - not economically, but quickly and “greasy”
• processing is carried out with a metal and nylon brush
• We are talking about the initial preparation for weathering paraffin (this is not at all necessary, you can immediately apply the weathering one)

In this video, pay attention to the method of applying paraffin to a ski. The “poke the iron and smear it on the ski” method is more economical and is no less effective.

Play sports, move and travel! If you find a mistake or want to discuss the article, write in the comments. We are always happy to communicate. 🙂

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Every fan of winter sports wants to extend the life of their favorite skis. In order to extend the service life of cross-country skis for more than one year, it is important to properly and competently care for them.

What does the concept of “cross-country ski care” include? Let's figure it out.

Maintenance is based on the same principle as: we use it correctly, store and transport it in special cases, monitor the condition of the sliding surface and process it in a timely manner. True, you will have to use lubricants more often here.

Preparing new cross-country skis

The initial processing of cross-country skis after purchase occurs according to the following scheme:

• remove the layer of ground paraffin;
• we treat the sliding surface with hard fibertex;
• apply paraffin and distribute it evenly with a special iron in the direction from toe to heel, without delay;
• remove excess paraffin with a scraper;
• treat the surface with brushes.

Further care will include preservation for the summer (cleaning and paraffin) and periodic lubrication. This is if you bought cross-country skis without notches. Models with notches do not require lubrication.

Treatment of cross-country skis - ointments

With lubricated skis (without notches), the situation is more complicated. Each weather has its own types of lubricant. Conditions of use, temperature conditions and method of application are indicated on the boxes. It is important to follow the instructions carefully. For most fans, it is enough to treat their skis once a month or when there is a sudden change in weather. Professionals do this before every race.

Separately, it is worth saying that ski waxes come in 2 types - glide ointments and grip ointments for classic models (prevent kickback and slipping). Skate cross-country skis are treated with gliding ointments entirely, in the direction from toe to heel. Holding ointments are applied to classic skis only in the middle part - to an area approximately 65-75 cm long under the bindings. For the front and back parts, use a gliding ointment.

Holding ointments can be either liquid or solid. Solid ointments must be removed from the jar and foil and rubbed onto the holding area on cross-country skis. Next, the ointment is ground with a synthetic rubbing agent to a thin, even layer. It is better to apply several thin layers rather than 1-2 thick ones.

Liquid ointments need to be squeezed out of the tube on both sides of the groove, and then leveled with a scraper or your thumb. Next, the layer is again rubbed with synthetic rubbing until smooth. In the case of liquid ointments, a thick layer is preferable.

To remove old grease, special solvent removers are required. First, remove the old ointment with a scraper, then remove the residue with a generously moistened paper napkin.

Proper ski care is a guarantee of comfortable skiing, as well as your safety and the durability of your equipment.

In order to prepare your skis for serious competitions, you need a lot of experience, flair and perhaps even luck. Professional ski teams have several people who prepare skis and measure humidity and air temperature. But anyone can prepare skis so that they glide well for amateur skiing. This article was created to familiarize readers with the technique of applying paraffin, holding ointments, proper treatment of skis with brushes, etc.

Preparation of skating style skis and the sliding part of classic skis.

For better skiing, the sliding surface of the ski must have a structure similar to the structure of the snow, and gliding ointments or paraffins must be applied to its surface, which would correspond to weather conditions. The best ski glide can be achieved if the structure of the skis and the ointment match the structure optimally.

The purpose of the ski structure is to minimize the contact of the sliding surface and the friction force with the snow.

The surface structure is the pattern that remains on the plastic after skis are processed using special machines. The structure can also be applied manually using knurling or cutting. The fine textured surface is suitable for cold weather and fine-grained snow. For warm weather, skis with a larger structure are used.

Types of ski structures applied using TOKO knurling.

Applying paraffin to skis.

If the paraffin is soft enough, then you can simply spread it on the ski. If it is hard, then it needs to be fused from the iron to the ski. There is an option to heat up a block of paraffin and apply it to the ski. It doesn’t matter which method you use, but enough paraffin should be applied to evenly cover the ski with a layer of 0.3 to 1 mm.

Melting paraffin using an iron.

After applying paraffin, it should be melted and smoothed over the ski with a heated iron. Processing a ski with an iron is a dangerous procedure; you can overheat and damage the plastic of the sliding surface. The temperature of the iron should be minimal, but sufficient to melt the paraffin. You need to move the iron over the ski quickly, without delays and frequent repetitions. There should always be a layer of paraffin between the iron and the sliding surface; when the sole of the iron and the ski come into contact, the plastic quickly overheats and swells. You cannot save paraffin, because there is a significant risk of ruining your skis. The surface of the iron needs to be cleaned with a rag from time to time.

Preparing skis for skating style.

Surface cleaning and preparation.

First you need to brush the sliding surface of the ski several times with a brass or steel brush. You need to brush in one direction, from the toe to the heel of the ski. Then you need to apply a layer of ground paraffin and level it with an iron at low temperature. Then you need to clean the surface of the ski with a scraper. The gutter is also cleaned with a special scraper. After such cleaning, a lot of paraffin remains, so it is necessary to treat the surface with a nylon brush. After this procedure, the surface of the skis should be sufficiently cleaned for further application of base and gliding waxes.

Apply one to three layers of “warm” paraffin. After the next layer is applied, the paraffin should cool for fifteen to twenty minutes. Then it needs to be treated with a scraper and a nylon brush. When preparing skis for competitions, special graphite wax must be applied before waxing the skis.

Apply paraffin appropriate to the weather, then scrape it off and brush it: first with a horsehair brush, then with a fine steel wool brush - this gives additional structure, and finally with a nylon brush for final polishing.

After completing all the above procedures, the skis are ready for use.

1. Clean the surface from dirt using.	2. Apply base coat.	3. Smooth the wax evenly over the surface of the ski.
4. Clean the surface from paraffin using.	5. Clean the groove using a special one.	6. Clean any remaining paraffin from the structure using .

Application of accelerators.

Solid accelerator.

Apply weather-appropriate paraffin. Then apply accelerator. Rub the surface of the ski with the cork until it becomes warm and set the ski aside for twenty minutes. Then you need to brush the surface. Repeat the procedure two to five times to ensure that the accelerator adheres better. The accelerator applied in this way should last up to ten kilometers.

Fluorocarbon powder.

Prepare the sliding surface of the ski and apply base wax. Treat it with a scraper and brush. Then apply weather-appropriate paraffin. Next, repeat the procedure with a scraper and brush. Sprinkle the powder evenly over the sliding surface of the ski, then rub over the surface to melt the powder. The iron temperature should be as specified in the powder instructions. Then put the ski away for twenty minutes or more. It is better to carry out the last treatment with brushes immediately before using the skis.

1. Warm up the sliding surface using.	2. Sprinkle onto surface.	3. Distribute the accelerator evenly using .
4. Melt the accelerator.	5. Remove excess accelerator.	6. Polish the surface before the race using.

Emulsions.

Apply base paraffin and carry out the cleaning procedure with a scraper and brush. Then apply paraffin suitable for the weather and repeat the cleaning procedure. Then apply the emulsion and let it dry for five to ten minutes. Then rub the cork until the ski warms up and again leave the ski alone for twenty minutes. After this, you can begin finishing the surface with a brush.

1. Pre-polish the surface of the ski. Use the yellow side.	2. Spray at a distance of 10 cm from the ski and let dry at room temperature for 15 minutes.	3. Polish the surface with the white side.	4. Before the race, additionally polish the surface with a special polish.

Preparing classic style skis.

Preparation of the sliding surface.

The preparation of the sliding surface is carried out in the same way as the preparation of skate-style skis, but without treating the skis under the block. Do not apply paraffin under the block; apply it only to the tip and tail of the ski. You can calculate the length of the block yourself, and for this you will need an assistant. To do this, you need to strap into your skis on a flat floor and stand evenly on both feet. Ask an assistant to slide a piece of paper under the ski block and mark on the block the places where the sheet will rest against the sliding surface. This way you will determine your individual length of the effective repulsion surface. If you choose skis that are too hard for your weight, then the length of the pads may be more than 70-75 cm - this will have a bad effect on the dynamic characteristics of the ski - you will not be able to push off well and will lose gliding speed. Choose skis according to your weight and skiing level.

The length of the pushing surface of a classic ski depends on the weight of the skier and the stiffness of the skis, but should not be more than indicated in the figure.

Solid holding ointments.

Sand the pad with sandpaper to ensure better adhesion of the ointment to the surface of the ski. This way the ointment will last longer. For the bottom layer, primer ointment is used. Apply one layer of heated ointment suitable for weather conditions, then smooth it with an iron. Then a holding ointment is applied, which is also selected according to weather conditions. It is applied in four to six layers in the holding area. Each layer is rubbed with a cork.

1. Roughen the surface under the block with fine sandpaper and then remove dust from the surface.	2. Apply.		3. Rub the base ointment evenly into the surface using .
4. Apply the required coating to the ski block.		5. Rub the ointment. It is recommended to apply at least 3-4 layers of ointment and rub each layer separately.

Liquid ointments - klisters.

You need to clean the block, as in the previous section. Then apply a layer of base klister, and on top a layer of klister for the given weather. It is best to carry out this procedure indoors. Then you need to heat the klister layers with a hairdryer. Before using skis, you should cool them in the fresh air.

1. Give the surface under the block a special roughness with fine sandpaper and remove dust from the surface.	2. Apply.		3. Grind the klister and let it cool in the cold. Clean the iron from any remaining base klister.
4. Apply in the pad area.		5. Rub the klister or your fingers.

Cleaning the sliding surface.

The easiest way to clean the block from residual ointment is with an acrylic scraper. You can also use for this procedure. Apply it to the surface of the ski, wait half a minute and wipe with paper.

The sliding surface of the ski should be cleaned several times a season. Carefully apply the ground wax, then melt it. The dirt should rise to the surface and can be easily removed along with the paraffin using a scraper. Then apply a weather-appropriate wax. It is better not to use a solvent to clean skis, since after it you need to apply ground wax again. But the use of a solvent will be necessary if the klister gets on the sliding surface of the ski.

To apply paraffin, it is best to use a special one. Because a regular household iron does not give an accurate temperature. If you stop the iron at one point, or move it too often in the same place, you can ruin your skis.
- Before applying the slip wax, rub the ski from toe to heel.
- After cleaning the surface, treat it as thoroughly as possible.
- can only be used in holding areas, under no circumstances apply it in places where sliding paraffin is applied.
- When using, it is better to reduce the holding area by 3-4 centimeters and limit it with tape or a fixed paper sheet. Do not use tape - it will leave sticky marks.
- Experience is very important in preparing skis. Use different combinations of ointments during training, and you will find the best option for competitions.
- Paraffin protects the sliding surface. For long-term storage, always apply, or better yet.

Treatment of the sliding surface with brushes.

Modern machine processing of the sliding surface of skis gives it a certain structure. This structure allows water and air to drain well when rubbing against snow, which ensures good gliding. Therefore, it is very important to thoroughly clean the grooves of the structure from ointment residues in order to ensure maximum gliding quality.

The structure of the ski with primary paraffin treatment. All pores and grooves are filled with hot paraffin.	The structure of the ski is processed using a scraper. There is still quite a lot of paraffin in the recesses, which will interfere with the removal of moisture.	Ski structure after brushing. Using several types of brushes, you can clean and polish the surface to a perfectly clean state.

After paraffin is applied to the sliding surface and removed with a scraper, the grooves of the structure remain filled with paraffin. In order to completely clean them, you need to use brushes. They come in manual and... Using hard metal or nylon brushes allows you to completely remove any remaining paraffin.

When using a brush (of any kind), do not press it too tightly against the sliding surface of the ski. Brushes with bristles at right angles remove paraffin most effectively. If you press the brush too hard, the bristles will begin to bend and slide across the surface instead of cleaning it.

Metal brushes are best suited for cleaning skis from old grease and preparing it for applying new grease. Hard metal fibers perfectly remove remnants of new ointments, dirt and plastic oxidation products, thereby opening the pores on the sliding surface, which promotes better absorption of new ointments.

Metal brushes are also needed to improve the properties of the sliding surface of skis. Skis that have been processed on a grinding machine should be treated with a brush (preferably with steel bristles). After this treatment, the structure of the sliding surface will become better, since the brush will remove burrs and other contaminants and irregularities.

Preparing skis for competitions.

First of all, you should prime the surface of the skis.
- Then apply graphite paraffin using a hot method. This move prevents mixing of several layers of paraffin and increases the time of use of lubricants.
- Next, cool the ski to room temperature, and then treat it with a scraper.
- Treat the surface with a horsehair rotary brush, and then with a hand brush with fine metal bristles.
- After this, proceed to apply paraffin, suitable for weather conditions, using a hot method.
- Then hydrocarbon or low fluoride wax is applied, it binds best to the previous layer of wax and the porous surface of the ski.
- Let this layer cool, treat with a scraper and the same brushes.
- After this, apply high-fluoride paraffin using a hot method.
- Let it cool and repeat the procedure with the scraper and brushes.
- The preparation process is completed by applying a fluorocarbon lubricant that is suitable for weather conditions.
- After this, the sliding surface should be treated with polishing brushes.

If you are using fluorocarbon lubricant, it is best to have a second set of brushes. Wax brushes should not be used on fluorocarbon grease.

Ski priming for competitions.

In the fresh air, the plastic of the sliding surface of skis begins to oxidize and loses its ability to absorb ointments. This can be seen by the resulting gray coating. To avoid this process, after cleaning the skis, you should apply a layer of ground paraffin.
Clean the surface of the ski from old ointment with a brush. Preferably a rotary one, but any other type is possible, but always with metal bristles. Don't be afraid to take the time to pre-brush the surface of the ski with a fine rotary brass or steel brush. After this treatment, the surface of the ski will better absorb the lubricant, and the lubricant will last longer. For best results, treat the sliding surface with fibertex. It will smooth out minor defects and burrs, and the ski surface will become smoother.

Next, you need to apply a layer of soft paraffin to the surface of the skis. It is best to use ground or shipping wax, but you can use soft wax for warm weather. Then you need to melt the paraffin with an iron at the temperature specified in the instructions. Let the ski cool and treat it with a scraper and brushes. First with a horsehair rotary brush, then with a rotary brush with fine metal bristles. Instead of the latter, you can use a hand brush with fine bristles. The treatment must be completed using a gray or white nylon brush.

The procedure described above is called hot ski cleaning. Soft paraffin is removed from the pores of the sliding surface along with old grease and dirt.

After cleaning, you can begin priming the sliding surface. Medium hard paraffin is applied to the surface of the ski. Then time is given for it to cool down. The remaining paraffin is removed with a scraper and treated with brushes as described earlier. This procedure can be repeated several times. The more times you apply paraffin and brush it, the better your skis will glide. With each repetition of the procedure, the paraffin will further penetrate the structure of the sliding surface of the ski, protecting it from oxidation. The brushing process is similar to the skiing process, so when brushed, the skis become smoother, which improves their glide.

The temperature that the sliding surface of skis can withstand.

Do not treat sliding surfaces at temperatures above 150 degrees. When the temperature is exceeded, the characteristics of the plastic change and it stops absorbing new ointment. In such cases, the ski needs to be cycled in order to open the pores in the upper layers of plastic.

Do not set the iron to too high a temperature. Do not allow smoke to appear when melting paraffin. Heat the ointment with an iron from the middle to the toe and heel of the ski. The risk of burning the plastic is higher where the thickness of the plastic is thinnest. The instructions for each product must indicate the required temperature.

How the ski surface heats up when using a rotor plug and brushes.

Remember that the iron must be in constant motion. The same applies to the rotary plug. First, treat the surface at low speed. Then repeat the procedure at high speed. The surface of the ski after treatment should be warm, but not hot.

When to cycle your skis.

There are many cases when the sliding surface of skis oxidizes. Therefore, the ointment is not properly absorbed into the sliding surface. But skis can always be cycled by removing the plastic layer and applying a new structure. Many skis become deformed after some time of sanding. The surface becomes very uneven, which leads to a significant deterioration in gliding. In such cases, it is better to re-sand the ski and remove the old structure.

Handling skis prepared for competitions.

If you only finished preparing your skis the night before, then before the competition itself it is better to brush them again. Skis that have not been brushed will not provide optimal glide.